Monday, February 28, 2011

Day 8

I spent the day in the flight pen blind, unobserved by the condors within (the beauty of one-way glass). This funny little starling kept coming up to the window--oblivious to my presence--and eyeing his reflection in its mirrored surface.


The ravens that land on the top of the flight pen frequently torment the condors by reaching their beaks in through the mesh to knock the many-times-larger birds on their bald heads. Sometimes, though, the condors take their revenge by nipping the ravens' toes.


Sunday, February 27, 2011

Day 7

Today I walked the "long" walk to Hilltop, the hill on top of which we take signal sets. Just for fun, and also because no way was I getting a car through the mud on the drive up. The snow was just beginning to melt, but there was still a chill in the air.

Caterpillar on the go!



Coyote pawprints follow ATV tracks through the mud.

Saturday, February 26, 2011

Day 6


You wouldn't know I hadn't left southern California.

***

Also, happy birthday little sister!

Friday, February 25, 2011

Day 5: Snow Day


When I awoke this morning, this was the sight that greeted me. Um, I thought all this behind in Montreal...

Naturally, I ran around taking pictures.

Of skulls.

Of moss-covered tree branches.

Of snow-covered farm equipment.

Of creatures.

Of more skulls.

Of bunnies.

Thursday, February 24, 2011

Day 4: Bitter Creek

With my ATV certification in hand, I was headed up to Bitter Creek, the other refuge further north.


Bitter Creek is definitely a change of pace: smooth dirt roads, rolling hills. Everywhere you need to be is just a short drive away. There is a flight pen for training new condors to deal with the human world they will encounter on the outside. There are some barns with owls inside. Condors don't nest at Bitter Creek, they only drop by to feed every now and then. 

Wednesday, February 23, 2011

Day 3

James, the other newbie, and I were up early Wednesday morning to be trained to ride ATVs. James had already ridden an ATV before; my only experience “off-roading” was that pathetic section of the Autopia ride at Disneyland that is, essentially, a dirt path with some pebbles on it. The refuge manager who was training us set up various obstacle courses of tiny traffic cones (only a couple of which I ran over!) ATV riding is actually pretty fun. Who knew? (Besides all those teenagers in the Midwest).

So cool.

Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Day 2

Spent the day watching a condor pair go house-shopping. That evening we had a full house, including a rare concurrence of all four interns.

Monday, February 21, 2011

Hitch 2 Begins

Snow....what?

I showed up at the Fish and Wildlife office early Monday morning to discover the front door was locked. Apparently it was a federal holiday. Who knew? Eventually however, I was joined by the Jeffs: Gorgeous Geoff, my supervisor, and Handsome Jeff, my fellow intern (please note: the epithets are not mine). It was determined, after some deliberation, that Jeff would be joining me on the trip up to Hopper. I was headed back there for my ATV training in the early part of the week, and would be off to Bitter Creek after.

Jeff made for great company as we drove up the twisting roads to Hopper. It had snowed the previous weekend, and the higher we climbed, the more white appeared on the side of the extremely muddy road. At one point, I was convinced we were going to get stuck, the car was fishtailing so badly. But we didn’t.

Back up at Hopper, Jeff and I met up with Darin, and the three of us embarked on an exploratory hike looking for a possible nest cavity.  We didn’t find it (as it would happen, the nest turned out to be on the ridge we were standing on, and could only be viewed from the ridge opposite). 

Wednesday, February 16, 2011

D is for.....

Display (n.)

The method by which male condors court females. The male's head flushes red, his feathers puff up, and he holds out his wings with a slight bend at the elbow joint. He then proceeds to 'dance' from side to side, sometimes turning in a full circle around the female. This display can last anywhere from a few seconds to a few minutes. If a female is receptive to his advances, she might preen the male, and if the courtship is successful, then she will assume a mating position. If a female rejects the male's display, she might nip at him, or simply fly away.

[See this photo, from ARKive]

Tuesday, February 15, 2011

Day 9 (Later)

Got a call from Joseph at around 3:30 in the afternoon telling me to head down that night instead of Wednesday morning. Following some hurried packing, I headed out just as the sun was setting (theoretically--not that I could see the sun through the eerie blankness outside). I thought for sure I was going to get lost on the way back. Geoff had told me how easily people took wrong turns and ended up on one or another of the oil pads scattered throughout the mountains. Factor in dark and fog, and the fact that I'd never driven down the road before, and the fact that driving up I'd been following Geoff, I figured that if I got lost any less than three times it would be a miracle. Miraculously, I managed the trip back to Ventura safely with nary a false turn. There were a few points where I convinced myself I was completely off the map, but then, as with the hike down Snag Ridge, I'd see the landmark equivalent of flagging tape--an oak tree here, some large fans there, a particular oil pad there--and I was reassured of my course.

My first hitch is done. I didn't die. I didn't get lost in the woods. I didn't get eaten by a bear, or bitten by a rattlesnake.

Go me.

Day 9

Excerpt from my field notes:

"I'm sitting in my truck now, though you wouldn't know I'm up at Silver Tanks: the fog is so thick I can barely see 20 feet ahead of me. Not picking up many birds today, probably because they know better than to go out in weather like this. I'm apprehensive about today because there's some chance I could be driving home tonight instead of tomorrow since it's supposed to rain tomorrow early and then I really will be stuck. The roads here turn to mud with the slightest bit of rain, and even our four-wheel-drive cars can't make it out. Since I can't ATV yet, weather is a major consideration.

Yesterday there was a whole switcheroo with the schedule so not only did the new intern not show up but neither of us will have our ATV training this week as planned."

Oil pumps looking ghostly in the fog. 

Sunday, February 13, 2011

BOBCAT!

That is all.

House-Hunting


Day 7

Spent the morning listening to a Beatles marathon playing on the radio of Vince's camper as he, his dog Junior, and I watched 237 and 255 down in Pole Canyon, their territory. We were lucky enough to catch the pair copulating--twice! And just in time for Valentine's Day, too.

Speaking of, I'm going to be alone on the day, and not just in the traditional, sad-sack single-lady sense. Vince left Hopper today at noon, leaving me the only human being for miles. It's not particularly depressing, but rather, deliciously ironic.


Saturday, February 12, 2011

No Hunting Zone

Day 6

I'm frankly surprised I am currently sitting here, in the house, on a couch, (with a mouse?) and not either a) lost in the woods, or b) dying of a rattlesnake bite.

Wildlife biologists work Monday through Saturday, so this morning Geoff left for his "weekend" and I was left to fend for myself. He wanted me to hike down to mid-Hopper Canyon, which, as you may recall, was the big hike I did my first day. Trouble was, I am not yet ATV-certified, so I had to rely on my own two feet to carry me down the perilously steep hills just to get to the trailhead. Lucky me. All I could think as I descended further and further was the way back. Oh this was going to be a fun day, I thought. Little did I know.

Starting down the actual path, I couldn't find any of the fluorescent orange flagging tape that is supposed to mark the trail. Was I going the right way? Was I going to get lost? I wandered. I went down one way, then back up, then over there, then back to the first route. Really, this was unnecessary, since as long as you keep hiking down, eventually you'll probably get to the OP at the bottom of the ridge, since any other path basically puts you off the ridge and onto a sharp incline leading straight into the canyon. But my panicked brain, desperately wanting to avoid the humiliation of getting lost during my first solo mission, inserted doubts where none should have been. As it turned out, I was always going the right way, and that first flash of orange my eye caught--oh what sweet relief! Let this be a lesson to you, Angela. Chances are, if you think you're lost, you probably aren't.

Oh, but then. Then, my confidence restored, I began to hike faster, impatient--now that I was sure of the way--to get to the bottom. And then I promptly almost stepped on a rattlesnake. No, really, I caught my foot in mid-air a good six inches from its gaping mouth. And it was no small thing: big, a solid coiled mass of armor-like scales. There was the rattle, furiously shivering. There were the fangs that could easily pierce my boot. I fell backward, yelped in an extremely undignified way, scrambled up the trail the way I'd just come, and then immediately wished I'd gotten a picture. I could hear it rattling, an angry noise that admonished me. I felt like I had when I was little, at a museum with my mom. I knew to respect the artwork, knew not to touch the shiny, breakable things. And the security guard scolded me anyways--"Make sure she doesn't touch anything!" he'd barked. I had cried then for the injustice of it all.

I wanted to cry a little bit now out of sheer relief. But mostly I wanted to apologize. I did apologize, I think. "Sorry, rattlesnake! I didn't see you there! Apologies for ruining your morning." It was the honest truth: I hadn't seen it there. It was resting on the path just on the other side of a downed branch that itself looked like a snake.

Once my racing heart had slowed and I was sure the snake was off the trail, I hiked the rest of the way down to the OP, albeit walking loudly and carrying a big stick.

I hung out at the OP for a while, taking signals and scanning the ridge opposite for anything remotely condor-shaped. It was unsettling coming to terms with the fact that I was totally alone out there. Like, I could have been naked and no one but me and the condors would know it. At 2:30 I turned around and went straight back up the ridge. I was nearly dead by the end, but what a relief to see the car, to set down my rucksack. Job well done, Angela.

Back at the ranch, Vince and I hung around outside until it got dark, talking about animals and fire safety and ATVs. When he's up at Hopper, he sleeps in his camper, but he was over after dinner to fill out data sheets. Now, however, I am alone in the house, and will be for the next two days. The new intern arrives Monday night.

Ahoy condors! I search for big black birds through my spotting scope.

The view. At a certain point, every shadowed nook and cranny looks like a condor. 

Taking a compass reading.

Friday, February 11, 2011

Potted Owl

Hello Western screech owl (Megascops kennicotti)! Geoff found this little guy roosting in a pot that was hanging on the wall of the wood shed. 

Day 5

Today was my first real day alone.

I stationed myself up at one of the OPs for the day, and hung out in the back of the SUV in between sets of signals. The car practically shook with the force of the wind.

Drove back to the ranch house in the evening. The trip down is uncannily like the Indiana Jones ride at Disneyland, what with the car lurching and bouncing as it hits rocks, grooves cut into the road by the rain. Geoff and I were joined for dinner by Vince, an older volunteer, ex-Navy. Vince regaled me with his stories, and handy tips for the job. He deemed me "worth keeping around." So that's good.

I woke up to the sight of this group of mule deer (Odocoileus hemionus) grazing outside my window. 

Thursday, February 10, 2011

Day 4


I was up at sunrise to head out to the wooden blind perched above the feeding site. With the exception of the birds who had flown overhead two days earlier, this was the closest I'd been to the condors yet, and now I was actually able to distinguish color tags.

Studbook #             Tag Color
1 - 99                              Orange
100 - 199                         Red
200 - 299                        Yellow
300-399                          Blue
400 - 499                        White
500 - 599                        Black

Geoff left late morning to pick up a condor from the Los Angeles Zoo who had been treated for lead poisoning. I was left alone. I ended up seeing some pretty cool stuff: a couple courtship displays, some wing-begging, a possible new mating pair, a golden eagle. All in all, a good day.

This pair arrived and left the feeding site together. True love? Or just friends?

At first the condors seem hesitant to try the half-a-bear. At last, one decides to give it a shot.

A golden eagle (Aquila chrysaetos) drops in for a free lunch. The condors know to back off -- they're no match for an eagle's killing claws. In addition to carrying off one of the rabbit carcasses, the golden kept swooping low over the condors and knocking them on the heads. In other news, golden eagles are kind of assholes.

Little 560 is a total daddy's girl -- first she went up to Mom and started begging for food. Mom was all "No way, baby." So 560 went over to Dad, wing-begging and looking adorable, and Dad was more than happy to oblige.

Lunchtime

The inherent irony of my choice of provisions only struck me after the fact.


ALAN! ALAN! ALAN! ALAN! ALAN!

California ground squirrel (Otospermophilus beecheyi)

If you haven't seen this video, I suggest you watch it now. The title of the post will make more sense if you do.

Wednesday, February 9, 2011

Day 3

Wednesday, while Darin prepared to leave for her "weekend," Geoff took me on a tour of the many Hopper landmarks. Silver Tanks. Wayne's Pad. Freezer Pad. Hopper Peak. Condor Ridge. Lone Tank. Green Tanks. I programmed my radio receiver while Geoff and I sat in the car, sheltered from the raging winds outside. Basically, my job as an intern will be to drive (or hike) around to different observation points, where I then stand and take sets of signals to get a condor head count.

Taking signals looks a little like a strange dance, or perhaps Tai Chi. You wave your yagi antenna around slowly in a circle, first angled horizontally, then vertically (if a bird is flying, its wing transmitter will be parallel to the ground; the signal it broadcasts will be stronger if the receiving antenna is in the same plane).

In the early evening, Geoff had me fix condor kennels in the flight pen down below the ranch house. The flight pen here currently doesn't house any birds, since it's still semi- under construction.

Just as it got dark, we grabbed out headlamps and knives, picked up the half-a-bear and rabbits that had been defrosting in the thaw box down by the road, and headed up to Lower Pinnacles Feeding Site. It was all very surreal: the wind practically bowling us over ; dragging this massive carcass over to a chain staked into the ground ; the tiny patch of light offered by the headlamps ; Geoff cutting into the dead animals like poking holes in a package of frozen food before you put it in the microwave.

That night, dinner tasted like rotting bear flesh. 

Tuesday, February 8, 2011

H is for . . .

Hitch (n.)

the period of time an intern spends in the field, typically lasting ten days and extending from one Monday through Wednesday of the following week ; under normal circumstances, interns alternate between the two field sites from one hitch to the next.

You never forget your first (condor)

Day 2

I saw my first wild condor this morning! Driving out of the refuge past a feeding site, there they were, flying above us, big black smudges against blue sky. As we got closer, though, other colors emerged: the white triangles beneath their wings, the red, yellow, blue, white, black of their number tags.


You can see the condors in the distance here

The day led us to Snag Ridge, which just keeps going down, down, down—oh, and just in case you thought it got better, down some more. We were each equipped with a tool—me and Darin with loppers and Geoff with an axe—for trailclearing. Orange flagging tape breadcrumbs marked the way. We set up camp for lunch at the bottom OP, where across from us were perched four condors: 125, 111, 180, and a juvenile, 462. Lucky for us, we caught 125 displaying to 111—twice!

Setting up the scope at the OP

Two condors as seen through a scope

The ranch house living room. Not too shabby, although we have at least a dozen unofficial furry roommates living in the walls.

The view from the porch

A mural some previous employee painted on the wall in the house

Quote of the Day

"Well, at least we have clothes on."

Monday, February 7, 2011

Day 1

My mom drove me to the Ventura County Fish and Wildlife Service building. What unfolded there was a day of bureaucracy—not quite what I was expecting, but probably what I should have expected. I had to fill out a number of forms, as well as complete a tutorial on the government’s computer system and information security that looked like it had been created in the mid-90s, and offered up such challenging quiz questions as “True or false: it is a good idea to leave valuable government equipment in an unlocked vehicle.” I’ve got to say, I really struggled with that one.

At some point, there were burritos.

I met everyone in the office, or rather was paraded around by Joseph, the project supervisor who, with his long blonde dreadlocks and flaxen beard, bears a striking resemblance to Thor. “Let me get you a biologist,” Ivett at the front desk had told me as I stood nervously in the little lobby holding a cup of coffee that had long gone cold, feeling every bit of my inexperience.  I swear he had to duck to get through the doorway. He led me from cubicle to cubicle: “This is Angela, our new intern.” If you asked me now what any of those people’s names were, or their position, I would guess Chris or Mike, and…coordinator. No—supervisor. Of…something. I don’t think I’d be too far off.

I met Geoff, my supervisor. Like Joseph, Geoff also has a beard. Are beards a requirement for field work? Maybe. I’ll have to work on that. Geoff gave me all my gear (I have gear!) and labels (now I have gear with my name on it!)

My gear:


At one point I thought I was going to have a panic attack. But let me take you back about two weeks. While reading over the job description for California Condor Recovery Program Intern, I distinctly thought I saw a mention of the vehicles being manual transmission. This fact was worrisome to me: the only two times I’d driven stick had gone terribly. The first ended with my dad telling me for the thousandth time to “Listen to the car”—because that helps—while I burst into tears of frustration. The second time, the car battery died after I’d stalled out one too many times. While my dad told me it wasn’t technically my fault, he should have gotten a new battery sooner, blah blah blah, the insinuation was there.  It put me off the whole thing for years. Flash forward to the afternoon of Tuesday January 25: my interview for what is basically my dream job is winding down, and I think it’s going well, and apparently it is because Joseph says suddenly, “So, let’s talk about a start date—how does next Monday sound?” and I nearly fall out of my chair. I manage to say something incredibly cogent to the effect of “Um… Oh! Ok. Uh, I still need to get some things together. Give my two weeks’ notice to the GAP. Buy some…hiking boots? Could I do the following Monday?” In the moments following a spontaneous joyful living room jig, the reality of what I’d just signed up for sunk in: I had two weeks to learn to drive stick. When I thought ahead to the next fourteen days, I envisioned a wacky montage set to Gary Numan’s “Cars”: I’d stall out a couple times, shrug exaggeratedly at passers-by, lock eyes with my dad and we’d both burst into laughter. “Listen to the car,” he would say mystically, and I’d close my eyes, take a deep breath, and listen, really listen to the car, and I’d finally get it

Let’s just say it didn’t go quite like that.

So two weeks later, when Geoff hands me the key to a Dodge Durango and it suddenly becomes clear to me that I would be driving myself up to the Hopper Mountain National Wildlife Refuge, I nearly had a panic attack. “I may need a quick refresher course on driving a manual car,” I stammered, my heart in my throat. As if that would do anything. Life isn’t like a montage, and when Grandmother Willow tells you to listen with your heart, you don’t just magically know English. Geoff, however, gave me this bemused look. “Oh, all the cars are automatic.” I have never heard such shiny, golden words.

And good thing, too, because I’d have never made it out of the Fish and Wildlife Service parking lot, much less up the twisty, bumpy, dark mountain road that led up, up and up, then down, down into the refuge.

Geoff and I caravanned, first through Ventura for a quick stop at Trader Joe’s, then to a fishery. At that fishery is a freezer. In that freezer are bodies. Straight out of a slasher-in-the-woods horror flick: mangled carcasses of deer, rabbits, and "Oh! That is…half a bear." But that is just the Forest Service’s side. Ours is much neater: heavy black trash bags, with only the occasional furred limb poking out. We took the half-a-bear and four rabbits—frozen solid, as one might expect—and threw them in a cooler in the trunk of Geoff’s Durango. I sent a brief thanks to the universe for sparing me those passengers for the long drive up.

By the time we hit the potholed dirt road that winds its way treacherously up to Hopper Mountain, it was dusk and I had a monster migraine brewing. Only able to see the little patch of road ahead of me illuminated by my headlights, I began the slow climb, careful not to think too hard about how little road stood between me and certain plungey-death. God, my mom would hate to know what I’m doing right now, I realized. Sometimes I could barely see the road through the dust kicked up by Geoff’s car.

Higher we drove, past oil pads and abandoned shacks and giant fans. The pumps, like giant drinky birds, illuminated by muted orange light, looked particularly eerie moving slowly against the star-filled inky black. As we drove, Geoff and I would periodically converse over the car’s radios, as he would point out turns I’d have to take when coming down the same road later, or I’d ask him questions about the program, about condors, about hunters and oil companies. It added to the strangeness, having a conversation with a disembodied voice you can’t interrupt, who can’t hear your reaction, a laugh or a “huh” until you press the transmit button.

Finally we began the descent into Hopper Refuge, and I found myself praying to a god I don’t believe in that I wouldn’t vomit with every jolt as the car hit a ditch or a pothole. There was a light in the distance, a porch light. A house came into view. I couldn’t focus on taking in my surroundings, however, or getting to know the intern currently sitting on the couch watching an episode of “How I Met Your Mother.” Walking past one of our trucks on the way in, I caught a whiff of rotting meat; in the kitchen, the propane smell of the stove filled my nostrils. I bolted to the bathroom and threw up.  A couple Tylenols and an hour-long nap later and I was just peachy.

I fell asleep that night to the chorus of frogs from the nearby stream. 

A is for . . .

Angela (n.)

Female, young adult. Bred in captivity. Recently released into the wild.